written by Sheila Hansen, Aesthetician, Hansen Clinic
One of the most asked questions I hear every day is “What can I do to look younger and slow or stop the aging process?” As much as we all wish we could drink from the fountain of youth and never age, it has unfortunately not been discovered yet, so we have to resort to other means to try to deter the aging process. We cannot stop the hands of time but armed with the knowledge of what causes the visible signs of aging we can do a lot to prevent premature aging.
Skin aging is a process that is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic aging is unavoidable and is determined by genetics. It involves our body’s natural internal processes that lead to our skin’s loss of radiance, firmness and strength. Hormonal changes, genetics and the natural slowdown of our metabolism can all contribute to our skin’s cracking, creping, thinning and sagging. This type of aging is responsible for only about 10% of our visible aging.
The largest cause of visible aging is caused by environmental sources and is preventable. Extrinsic aging is caused by daily exposure to things such as UV light, smoke and air pollution. These things cause chemical reactions in the skin, known as free radical damage, which can lead to signs of premature aging including fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and even skin cancer. Up to 90% of the visible changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by sun exposure.
The most effective anti-aging product that
you can use is a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Knowing that almost all of our visible aging can be attributed to UV exposure helps answer the question about slowing the aging process. The most effective anti-aging product that you can use is a broad-spectrum sunscreen. It is important to use one that filters the full UVA/UVB spectrum. There are two types of sun blocks or sun filters. The first is a chemical filter that stops the UV damage by absorbing UV rays. Many of the chemicals used in this type of filter are absorbed into the skin and can cause irritation in sensitive skin. The second type is a physical filter that protects by staying on top of the skin and absorbing and reflecting the sun’s rays.
“I’m inside all day so I don’t need to use sunscreen”. Unfortunately there is no way to avoid UV radiation. This radiation is divided into three sections: UVA, UVB and UVC. We are protected from UVC radiation by our ozone layer.
UVB radiation, or as I think of it ‘u vill burn’ rays, are absorbed when the sun shines on our skin and is absorbed into our epidermis. These rays generate oxygen-free radicals, which can destroy and mutate cells and even cause skin cancer.
UVA radiation, or ‘u vill age’ rays, are longer than UVB rays and travel deeper into the skin, going 30 to 40 times deeper and also creating oxygen-free radicals. These rays invade the deeper layers of the skin eventually destroying the collagen and elastin that give the skin its firm, plump texture and elasticity.
Recent studies have shown that it only takes eight moderate doses of UVA exposure before the effects of photoaging are evident. Unlike UVB, the strength of the sun’s UVA rays remains constant throughout the day and throughout the year. They are able to penetrate through clouds and glass, including that of car, office and home windows, and their effects target everyone, regardless of skin type, tone or condition. UVB is blocked by glass.
Unfortunately, studies now show that even broad-spectrum sun-screens that are designed to block both UVA and UVB rays only block up to 55% of the damaging free radicals created by UVA exposure, leaving the skin vulnerable to the damaging effects of UVA rays. Part of the problem stems from inadequate application of sunscreen. Many studies have found that users apply only one-fourth to one-fifth the amount of sunscreen necessary to achieve full protection. That means that a sunscreen with an SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of 30 only offers a protection of SPF 3-4 when applied at those levels.
Our bodies use internal antioxidants to defend against oxidative damage, but excessive exposure to ultraviolet light and our natural aging process depletes our body of this internal supply. Antioxidants prevent oxidative damage by neutralizing the oxygen-free radicals before they can attack the body. Taking an antioxidant orally can help protect our skin from these free radicals.
Vital Formulations Grape Seed Extract is one of the best supplements we can take for healthy skin. Applying a topical antioxidant also increases the level of protection against photoaging and skin cancer. Vitamin C, vitamin E, resveratrol, genistein, coffee berry, carotene and silymarin are all antioxidants that can be added to our daily care regimes for maximum protection.
An effectively formulated antioxidant like SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF will penetrate the skin to neutralize free radicals and prevent oxidative damage, reduce sunburn cells in UV-irradiated skin by up to 90%, help prevent the formation DNA mutations associated with skin cancer, prevent UV-induced collagen breakdown, and help prevent UV-induced reduction of Langerhans cells associated with the skin’s defense system.
For the ultimate in antiaging protection use a topical antioixdant followed by a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Here’s what I do: I use three to four drops of SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF after cleansing and toning and then I apply SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50 or Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50. This sunscreen is paraben free, water and sweat resistant, boosts the skins radiance, has an ultra sheer texture and no chemical filters.
I consider SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF and C E Ferulic the gold standard in antioxidant protection. They both provide powerful photoprotection that helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and restore radiance and a more uniform skin tone. Phloretin CF is ideal for oily, problematic and normal skin and helps diminish hyperpigmentation. C E Ferulic is ideal for dry, combination and normal skin and it helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles. I also take Vital Formulations Grape Seed Extract everyday to protect my skin’s collagen and elastin from the inside.
Let’s not forget about our kid’s delicate skin. Now is the time to start good skin care habits. Did you know that for every severe sunburn a child has before the age of 18 it increases their skin cancer risk by 10%? Having 5 kids of my own I know how hard it can be to get sunscreen on them before they run off to play or jump in the pool.
A child’s skin will benefit from a topical antioxidant just like an adults will, however they don’t need something as strong as the Phloretin CF. SkinCeuticals Eye Gel AOX+ is perfect for children’s sensitive skin. It has a 5% concentration of pure vitamin C, Ferulic acid to neutralize free radicals and decrease redness, Hyaluronic Acid to help the skin stay hydrated, Zinc to protect against UVB radiation, and Bioflavonoids which have an anti-inflammatory benefit. Apply this daily before using sunscreen and your kids will thank you years later when they still have firm, youthful looking skin.